This workshop was based on pattern cutting. In this session we covered the types of grain within the fabric, these were:
Lengthwise grain refers to the threads in a fabric which run the length of the fabric, parallel to the selvage of the fabric.
Crosswise grain is the threads that run perpendicular to the selvage of the fabric or the cut edge of the fabric as it comes off the bolt.
Bias grain is the thread line that is at a forty-five-degree angle to the lengthwise and crosswise grain of the fabric as it is on the bolt. The bias has stretch in woven fabric and will hang differently than a garment that has been cut on the straight or crosswise grain.
Almost all fabric is made from weaving threads together. This weaving technique means that the fabric has a grain. The grain will affect how the fabric moves as it’s pulled. For learning how to sew garments to fit correctly it is important that I understand not only how to find the grain but how it affects the fabric. Sewing against the grain can mean the fabric is trying to go in a direction it doesn’t naturally like to go in.
Following the grain will help the fabric look and wear the best. Fabric grain also affects the way fabric will hang and drape. It’s easy to figure out where the grain in a fabric is. To figure out where the grain is I would find out by pulling the fabric in several directions. The direction with hardly any stretch is the direction of the grain.
In this session we also covered darts and what I learnt was darts are folds (tucks coming to a point) and sewn into fabric to take in ease and provide shape to a garment, especially for a woman’s bust. They are used frequently in all sorts of clothing to tailor the garment to the wearer’s shape, or to make an innovative shape in the garment.
After learning about essential sewing techniques I then had to cut my own pattern given by the tutor and this was experimenting on the mannequins.
Overall, I found this workshop very engaging and important as it essential information to have when constructing patterns for garment and knowing how to approach the fabrics in a professional manner.